I have just one goal, I don’t want to be rich – I just want to surf everyday of my life, nothing has touched me more than the ocean. I would drop everything for this. An maybe do some public speaking on the side ;).
My dad told me when I was younger, that surfing was a waste of time and that I couldn’t take my girl friend on a date with a surf broad. What a fool I was… I should have just keep surfing, I surfed from about the time I was 10 till into my thirties off and on with my cousin Robert.